Shelby Isaacson shares the latest on vegan skincare. The best way to be more committed and have more fun as a vegan is to do it with a friend! You can share new recipes, talk through concerns, and just have fun living healthy together.
This week I’ll be talking to my dear friend, the amazing Shelby Isaacson! Shelby is the director of Marketing and Brand Development at Dakota Biotech. She’s a passionate medical botany advocate who loves to share her knowledge with others. Talking with her is always a blast. Trust me when I tell you, I’m thrilled about this week’s talk! Shelby and I will be talking about vegan skincare!
You already know I love all things vegan. Who wouldn’t? It’s healthy, safe, and helps you live a longer, more compassionate and loving life. But apparently, some vegan skincare can be … bad?
Shelby will share some shocking insights about vegan skincare. She’ll tell you what to avoid, what to look for, and how to find the perfect fit for your skin. And that’s not all! We’ll also talk about codependency. To all my fellow vegans out there with meat-eating partners, you don’t wanna miss this! We’ll be sharing advice and techniques to help you stay committed to veganism AND to your partner.
This is a session filled with self-care, self-love, and sisterhood! Enjoy it!
Connect with Shelby here.
Shop the amazing products from La Flore right here.
Skincare Ingredients to Avoid
By Maya Ivanjesku, M.S. – Chief Scientific Officer of LaFlore® Live Probiotic Skincare
Did you know some of your favorite skincare products could actually harm your skin and overall health? Shocking… yes, but the unfortunate matter is that it is possible. In the United States there are limited regulations for skincare formulations. This allows companies to compromise on integrity and use chemicals plus other additives with little research as to what it may actually do to the consumer’s skin, and body.
As someone who has made a career out of formulating skincare and cosmetics for some of the biggest brands in the industry, I’m still stunned and disturbed by how many products are still on the market with ingredients that are disruptive to the skin microbiome, and the body as a whole.
Today, let’s discuss the questions I wish people would ask and the skincare ingredients everyone should avoid…
Q: Why does the skin microbiome matter?
A: Just like the gut, the skin is home to a community of billions of friendly living microorganisms (bacteria), also known as skin flora. This community is called the skin microbiome. Think of it as an epidermal eco-system that provides nutrition, protection, and immunity. This microbiome defends the skin against pathogens and manages the ideal pH while continuously delivering the vitamins, minerals, and peptides the skin needs for overall health.
During my team’s extensive microbiome research, we found that most skin condition are directly related to an imbalance of good bacteria or lack of good flora. This includes skin conditions such as allergies, eczema, acne, inflamed dry skin, and more. Hence, when these skin concerns are present the microbiome is imbalanced or reduced.
If this doesn’t warrant the fact that we need to start paying more attention to the beneficial flora on the skin, maybe learning that over the last 50 years the average person’s beneficial bacteria has been reduced by 30% does. That’s right, in the 1970’s, the scientists counted all cells on human body the average cell count (bacteria and human cells) was 80% bacteria and only 20% human cells (iv.v.vi). Today, on a cellular level we’re 50/50, so we have managed to deplete our good bacteria by 30% in just 50 years (vii,viii,ix). Alarming? I think so because the beneficial bacteria are a source of skin immune respond and by looking at the current number of eczema alone is definitely alarming.
Q: What can I do to support the skin microbiome?
A: Incorporating microbiome supportive skincare that focuses on the replenishment of beneficial bacteria (LIVE probiotics) is the most effective way to help mend the imbalanced skin flora. I know most are faithful to brands they love and products that smell and feel nice, but many of these products could potentially compromise their microbiome and make their skin issues worse.
Q: What ingredients should I be looking out for and why?
A: There are hundreds of ingredients that harm or negatively impact the skin microbiome, so I advise individuals to focus on eliminating the “dirty dozen” as these are the worst of the worst. Or, at the very minimum begin with the top three offenders.
#1 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA)
Marketing teams are paid well to find creative ways to mask these ingredients, so I highly suggest looking for the full name in the ingredient list. EDTA is used in many products on the market as a freshness keeper and a chelating agent – meaning has an ability to bind to iron or toxins to keep the product fresh.
This ingredient is synthesized from ethylenediamine, formaldehyde, and sodium cyanide and is used to keep product’s fresh. Currently, the cosmetic database rates this ingredient as a “low risk,” however disodium EDTA is also used for enhancing product absorption. This means if there are any other potentially harmful chemicals/ingredients such as heavy metals or parabens in the product they can be absorbed into the skin with ease. This leads to poisoning the cells and body.
I want to also point out, that while disodium EDTA is approved for commercial use, several countries, including Australia and parts of Europe, have banned the ingredient because of the potential health problems.
#2 Polyethylene glycol (PEGs)
PEGs are petroleum-based compounds widely used in skincare as thickeners and solvents and in pharmaceutical preparations as laxatives.
Depending on the manufacturing process, PEGs may contain measurable amounts of 1,4 dioxane and ethylene oxide which are known human carcinogens. Some studies show that these can harm the nervous system and impact human development (1,2,3,4,5).
If you have both EDTA and PEGs in the same formula, toxins can seep into the body and be a deadly combo for the skin cells and skin flora. This is due to EDTA’s ability to bind to the 1,4 dioxane and ethylene oxide that is present in PEGs, which will ultimately penetrate the skin carrying these two carcinogens into the body.
#3 Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Ethylene Glycol
These ingredients are similar to PEGs because they function as a penetration enhancer that will allow harmful ingredients to be absorbed more readily through the skin. They can also cause allergic reactions. Health Canada categorized propylene glycol as a “moderate human health priority” and has flagged it for future assessment under the government’s Chemicals Management Plan (6). It’s also important to note that these ingredients may be contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane.
Once you have conquered eliminating these three, I invite you to remove the following as well.
#4 Ethoxylates (PPG-Ceteth-5, Steareth-20, Ceteareth, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS) etc)
May be contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane as well. These ingredients usually have chemical names including the letters “eth” in the name.
#5 Ethanolamines (MEA, DEA, TEA (triethanolamine))
Linked to allergies, skin toxicity, and hormone disruptors.
#6 BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene)
Linked to carcinogen and hormone disruptors, which may cause liver damage.
#7 Formaldehyde releasing preservatives (DMDM hydantoin, methenamine, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3 diol (Bronopol), and several other preservatives)
These are linked to asthma, neurotoxicity, and developmental toxicity.
#8 Synthetic Fragrance/Perfume/Parfum
Fragrance recipes are considered trade secret and manufacturers are NOT obligated to disclose this ingredient in the ingredient listing (Disturbing!). Best is to avoid cosmetics that have “Fragrance” in the listing.
#9 Petrolatum
This ingredient is most likely contaminated with cancer causing impurities and is known to suffocate the skin. The European Union classifies Petrolatum a carcinogen.
#10 Triclosan
This is a known antimicrobial pesticide toxic to aquatic environments and is suspected of interfering with hormone function.
#11 Siloxanes (Cyclotetrasiloxane (Silicone D4), Cylcopentasiloxane (Silicone D5))
These are potential endocrine disruptors and are possible reproductive toxins that have a potential to bioaccumulate and harm aquatic life.
NOTE: Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicone polymers are produced from D4 and contain residual amounts of D4 and D5. Dimethicone is a common PDMS ingredient in cosmetics that feels so silky on skin but there is a price to pay for that.
#12 DBP (Dibutyl Phthalates)
This ingredient has shown in laboratory experiments to cause developmental defects and is a suspected endocrine disruptor. NOTE: Other phthalates are used in cosmetic fragrance materials – DEP (Diethyl phthalate).
We’re only scratching the surface here regarding the ingredients we should avoid, but I hope you now have a better understanding as to which ones to really pay attention to and why it’s so important to support the skin microbiome.
References:
(iv.) Snyder WS, Cook MJ, Nasset ES, Karhausen LR, Parry Howells G, Tipton IH. Report of the Task Group on Reference Man. vol. 23 Pergamon Press: Oxford; 1975. 10.1016/S0074-2740(75)80015-8.
(v.) Van Houte J, Gibbons RJ. Studies of the cultivable flora of normal human feces. Antonie van Leeuwenhoek J Microbiol 1966;32:212–22.
(vi.) Stephen A, Cummings J. The microbial contribution to human faecal mass. J Med Microbiol 1980;13:45–56.
(vii.) NIH. NIH Human Microbiome Project defines normal bacterial makeup of the body Natl Institutes Heal; 2012. http://www.nih.gov/news-events/news-releases/nih-human-microbiome-project-defines-normal-bacterial-makeup-body (accessed January 3, 2015).
(viii.) Bianconi E, Piovesan A, Facchin F, Beraudi A, Casadei R, Frabetti F, et al. An estimation of the number of cells in the human body. Ann Hum Biol 2013;40:463–71. 10.3109/03014460.2013.807878.
(ix.)Sender,R.,Fuchs, S. & Millo, R. Preprint on bioRxiv http://dx.doi.org/10.1101/036103 (2015).
Turkoglu M. and Sakr A. “Evaluation of irritation potential of surfactant mixtures.” Int J Cosmet Sci. 21, 6 (Dec 1999):371-82.
U.S. National Toxicological Program. “NTP Toxicology and Carcinogenesis Studies of Lauric Acid Diethanolamine Condensate (CAS NO. 120-40-1) in F344/N Rats and B6C3F1 Mice (Dermal Studies).” Natl Toxicol Program Tech Rep Ser. 480 (Jul 1999):1-200.
S. National Toxicological Program. “Toxicology and carcinogenesis studies of coconut oil acid diethanolamine condensate (CAS No. 68603-42-9) in F344/N rats and B6C3F1 mice (dermal studies).” Natl Toxicol Program Tech Rep Ser. 479 (Jan 2001):5-226.
European Commission. Regulation (EC) 1272/2008 , Annex VI, Table 3.2. Sep 2009. http://ecb.jrc.ec.europa.eu/classification-labelling/
Epstein, S with Fitzgerald, R. Toxic Beauty. Dallas: BenBella Books, 2009: 30.
Danish EPA. “Survey of liquid hand soaps, including health and environmental assessments.” Survey of chemical substances in consumer products 69 (206). http://www2.mst.dk/common/Udgivramme/Frame.asp?http://www2.mst.dk/udgiv/publications/2006/87-7052-062-3/html/kap08_eng.htm#8.2.3
European Commission. Cosmetic Directive 2003/83/EC, Annex III, Part 1, Ref. 60.
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(2) Brashear, A. et al. “Ethylene oxide neurotoxicity: a cluster of 12 nurses with peripheral and central nervous system toxicity.” Neurology 46, 4 (Apr 1996):992-8.
(3) California. EPA. Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment. Chemicals Known to the State to Cause Cancer or Reproductive Toxicity. February 5, 2010.http://www.oehha.org/prop65/prop65_list/files/P65single020510.pdf
(4). Environmental Health Association of Nova Scotia. Guide to Less Toxic Products.Halifax: EHANS, 2004. http://www.lesstoxicguide.ca/index.asp?fetch=personal#commo.
(5) OCA (Organic Consumer Association). 2008. Consumer alert. Cancer-causing 1,4-dioxane found in personal care products misleadingly branded as natural and organic. Available: http://www.organicconsumers.org/bodycare/DioxaneRelease08.cfm
Wangenheim J and Bolcsfoldi G. “Mouse lymphoma L5178Y thymidine kinase locus assay of 50 compounds.” Mutagenesis 3, 3 (May 1988):193-205.
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Lanigan, RS (CIR Expert Panel). “Final report on the safety assessment of PPG-11 and PPG-15 stearyl ethers.” Int J Toxicol.20 Suppl 4 (2001):13-26
Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Ingredient Reports — Quick Reference Table (summarizing publications through Dec 2009). http://www.cir-safety.org/staff_files/PublicationsListDec2009.pdf
Epstein, S with Fitzgerald, R. Toxic Beauty. Dallas: BenBella Books, 2009: 158-9.
(6). Environment Canada and Health Canada. Screening Assessment for the Challenge: 1,4-Dioxane. March 2010. http://www.ec.gc.ca/substances/ese/eng/challenge/batch7/batch7_123-91-1.cfm
